LAOS Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

LAOS

SAVANAKHET
The 411 - Not bad for a border town, and a place to just chill for a couple days. Be sure to have sunset beers + green papaya salad on the banks of the Mekong with the locals as sunset. The people here are some of the friendliest we met.
Sleep - Sisouk Guesthouse is in an old home with a nice family vibe

DON DET (Four Thousand Islands)
The 411 - A great place to while away the days and COMPLETELY unwind amidst scenic river islands. Don't expect to be off-the-beaten-path though as tourists are outnumbering the locals these days. Still, this is a special place and you could easily relax every bone in your body with a week-long stay of biking, walking, reading, chatting + swimming.

BAN NA HIN
The 411 - Quaint village set amidst a beautiful, limestone karst landscape. The word we heard was to skip Kong Lo Cave. In hindsight we wish we'd trusted our instincts instead of the reviews and done the 3-day moto "Loop" out of Ta Khaek to better admire the scenery + enjoy the villages. If you're planning on going to Ninh Binh in Vietnam this would be redundant and offers less ease of solo exploration.
Eat - To's Restaurant (next to the market) serves up huge portions of veg rice noodles with the charm of To to top it off.

VIENTIANE
The 411 - Super-chill for a capital city. Cars are beginning to outnumber motos these days, but it still retains the feel of a big village. Worth a couple days of exploration and more if you're in need of some down time or cheap internet.
Eat - Breakfast of almond croissants from a bakery a couple doors down from the Boulangerie. Dinner at food stall row - Great phad thai at the place with red walls for $1. Spicy papaya salad served up with a smile for .70 at one of the food carts on the alley across, and try the sticky rice with sweet black beans for dessert from the woman at the neighboring cart.

VANG VIENG
The 411 - Home of the endless "Spring Break". If you're not coming here looking to get wasted, laid or watch reruns then head on over to the west side of the river for a more "adult" experience. Spend a few days touring the caves in the valley by foot, climbing up a karst and padling on an inner tube through eerie Nam cave, a memorable experience. If your focus is karsts, the scenery in Guangxi Province in southern China or Halong Bay in Vietnam is much more spectacular. Vang Vieng's claim is more about water play or just playing.
Sleep - May Lyn Bungalows (west side of river on dirt road into the karst valley) is a chill gathering spot for interesting people, set in a lovely garden with views. Skip the food though.
Eat - Nisha Indian's chana masala, malai kofta, palak paneer, aloo muttar + naan are the best we've had since India (and even better than most there!)

LUANG PRABANG
The 411 - A pretty, preserved town with nice wats + a great night market to buy well-designed souveniers. Make sure to also spend a day at Kuang Si waterfall. Hike up to the top to discover the primo swim spot.
Eat - The night market's got a little something for everyone at rock-bottom prices. Also try the local specialty watercress salad.
Shop - The night market here has a huge array of well-designed stuff for you, family and ALL your friends. Why not at THESE prices?!

LUANG NAMTHA
The 411 - A bit of a dusty town, but the people here are some of the friendliest in Laos. This makes a good stop of you're heading onwards to China, Northern Thailand or into the tribal areas.
Eat - The Coffee House is owned by a super-friendly Thai couple who serves up tasty, cheap meals, great coffee + lots of good vibe.


2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to take the train from Bangkok to the border at Nakhon Pathon, and you COULD spend your entire trip relaxing on Don Det/Dhon Khon. Another option would be to take the overnight bus or train from Bangkok to Vientiane and continue north from there. A stop that came highly recommened that we missed was Mong Ngoi Neua - Sounds like Vang Vieng without the kids and might even be worth the bulk of your time. If you've really got your heart set on it, DO come to Laos. Our opinion though is that the neighboring countries have more to see and friendlier/more engaging people, which tends to make for a more memorable trip.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-7/2p
Meal - $2-5/pp
Coffee - .40
Beer - .50
Moto/Bicycle - $4-10/$1
Visa - $30-35/ 30 Day (Transit visas no longer available)

Visa Info
May be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. A 30-day Tourist Visa-On-Arrival can be obtained at the airport + most land border crossings for the same cost. Note that you pay $5 more on weekdays at the border. Once in country visas can be extended in Vientianne for $2/day at the government office or in Luang Prabang for $5/day at a travel agent for up to 30 days. After 60 days you must exit + re-enter the country for further stay. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Karst (limestone) formations set in rice paddies, caves, the Mekong, chilling out + meeting other tourists.

What's Not?
The people are pretty stand-offish, maybe a bit TOO chill, but this would be a great destination choice if that's what you're after and you want a bit more culture than just a beach holiday. Also, avoid March - June as it's blazing hot and VERY smoky from the slash + burn agriculture practiced in the North. We were back in August, and even with the rains, it was MUCH prettier at this time of year.

Will you Starve to Death?
The food here is similiar to the spicier Thai of the Isan area. You'll see curries everywhere. Popular street foods include grilled meats + seafood as well as very spicy green papaya salad accompanied with sticky rice, and phad thai. Also popular are the Vietnamese baguette sandwiches (Vegetarians can get them with cheese + veg, or egg) + pho (noodle soup). Lots of western food appears on the menu, but as always, ask a fellow diner or see what's being served before ordering. Generally though, we found the food to be pretty high quality, though not inspiring. Coffee is not as tasty + strong as the Vietnamese, but it's alot better than your average American cup of Joe. Most restaurants that cater to foreigners serve up tasty French-style crepes or American-style pancakes and some even bake delicious croissants + pastries.

Will you Dig It?
It's more chill than stress for a third-world holiday and will give you a much less "western" experience than neighboring Thailand, but unfortunately without the smiles. It's the scruffy cousin, separated only by the Mekong, but a world apart. And one of the best chances to experience village life. Transportation isn't glamorous, but it's not difficult to get around either. Bring a book or two to read in between chatting with fellow travelers. DO NOT come in the Spring, but it's not high on MY list for any time of year. In the numerous conversations we've had with other travelers, most dug the country MUCH more than we did. I guess that's just to say to each their own.

Books to Read
Vientianne has the only second-hand bookshops that we saw, and the selection is o.k. It's best to bring a couple with you and trade them in. Two good reads are The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down by Anne Fadiman and A River's Tale: A Year on the Mekong by Edward Gargan.

Check the "link" for photos from Laos