Thursday, May 24, 2007

CHINA - Guangxi Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Guangxi Province

CHENGYANG
The 411 - Another little-touristed village (actually a grouping of seven different villages) in an idyllic setting with rice paddies + old bridges. We've also had recommended the trek from Chengyang to Zhaoxing in Guizhou through beautiful countryside + doing homestays in small Dong minority villages.
Sleep - Yang's Guesthouse is just across the bridge and owned by a friendly local (Yang) who can answer your questions about the area.
Eat - There's one stir-fry house on the river by the bridge at the northern edge of town. The cheapest prices around and you can enjoy a sound + light show of the most natural sorts.

YANGSHUO
The 411 - A very touristy scene (of both Westerners + Chinese), but it's a necessary base for exploring the surrounding karsts.
See - Highlights of this area, if you've got the inclination for a little adventure + getting off-the-beaten-path, include biking through the surrounding karsts. Ride #1 - Head south to the Yulong Jiang (River) and take a right (west) on the dirt road right before the bridge. Follow the river until the road ends. Take a bamboo raft (5 yuan) to cross and continue biking along the river to reach the old Dragon Bridge. From here, you have the option to raft back down the river (130-150 yuan) if you're out of steam or keep biking and return via Jinbao town to Gaotian if time allows and you have the energy. Ride #2 - Head east to Fuli on Market Day (every 3 days) and explore before taking the ferry (5 yuan) across to Dutou village. Continue on to Liugong village and continue following the dirt road south + west to Lexiang and back to the main Yangshuo-Gaotian road to return home.
Eat - The food is only o.k., but you've at least once got to dine at the outdoor "Night Market". You won't believe your eyes, or ears.

XINGPING
The 411 - Much less touristy than Yangshuo, this would be a more relaxing base for further exploration.
See - For a REAL adventure set out on a multi-day bike trip from Yangshuo to Xingping (Note: You will need to ask for directions to each progressive village at every intersection as there are no signs). Ride #3 - Begin by heading north to Bajiaolin village, then Guban, continuing towards Daping. Keep staying right at the forks in the road and you'll eventually be high up on a ridge with views of the valley below. At the fork where the road begins to descend, stay right and you'll soon come across Mr. Zhao's Guesthouse, signed only in Chinese + the first accomodation you'll encounter on this route in Bao Shan village. (Note: It's approx. 7-8 hours to this point, 27 Km) Staying here is a memorable experience and Mr. Zhao will eagerly offer to take you to a viewpoint (10 yuan/p.p.) that is well worth the money. When you're feeling ready to move on continue down the road to the river (near "9 Horse" formation). Take the ferry across the Li Jiang (4 yuan) and continue along the river to Xingping. (Note: It's approx. 1-1/2 hours to this point). If you've got time it would be worth staying a night or two here too for more rides via bike or boat to check out the landscape, or you can continue back to Yangshuo via the road to Fuli. (Note: Approx. 2 hours, 24 Km)

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Guiyang (Guizhou province). Head out by bus to Xijiang (3-5 days), Congjiang area (1 day), then Zhaoxing (2 days) for a taste of village life. Time permitting, continue on into the Guangxi province and get your fill of bridges in the Chengyang area (2 days), before heading on to the Yangshuo area (3-6 days) and it's stunning karst landscape. Take a bus to Guilin where you can catch a flight back to Hong Kong. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-2/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Guangxi province is all about karsts - And in abundance. You've never seen anything like this!

What's Not?
This area has sold itself to tourism years ago so don't expect to have it all to yourself. Avoid Yangshuo on the weekend if you don't want crowds as the Chinese flock here in droves as a weekend "party" get-away.

Will you Starve to Death?
As with the other southern provinces, you've got stir-fry houses galore. Yangshuo has lots of restaurants that CLAIM to serve good western fare, though we never tried. Dumpling houses are a nice change from the usual and all offer veggie-filled.

Will you Dig It?
If you've ever longed for that magical landscape of China you've doubtless seen reproduced in watercolor on scrolls - Rivers flowing through karsts + men catching fish on boats with lanterns hung from poles - Then you'll be in seventh heaven.

Books to Read
We didn't see any second-hand bookstores that I recall, so it's best to bring your own. Here are two that are both entertaining + informative - The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester, Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux.

Check the "link" for photos from China

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