CAMBODIA Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CAMBODIA

SIHANOUKVILLE
The 411 - The beaches here are pretty good (Otres in the best of them), but this is THE party beach scene. Evenings going from beach bar to bar and dancing the night away are memorable though the music more miss than hit. Still, it's a good time and we ended up spending more time then we expected here (a common problem for visitors).
Sleep - Town is very spread out so I highly recommend renting a moto ($6) to get around. Victory Hill is a nice escape from the main beach scene and has a bit more funk factor + decent beach, though it's now turning in to a "girlie bar" scene. Try Sunset Garden View or Sakal for cheap($6), quiet + clean rooms. (There's a cool outdoor cinema right down the hill too). If you want a quiet getaway, there are a few very basic beach bungalows way down on Otres Beach, right on the beach for $10/night. Also, with your own wheels, Geckozy + Zen Garden are both cheap($4-5), chill scenes in a quiet neighborhood in downtown. You can also find quiet accomodations walking distance to Ochheuteal at Rega ($8-14) for convenient late-night parting.
Eat - Coffee (.25) + breakfast ($1) at Na Na on Victory Hill is the best deal around. Also a great deal on Victory to get your homemade pasta fix is La Tratorria. Marco Polo (by the Golden Lions) is good for Italian, especially pizzas, too.
Buy - Bring an I-Pod or portable hard drive with plenty of free space to load up with lots of new music at the Boom Boom Room. They have a hefty catalog to browse through and albums go for .75 - $1.25, depending on quantity. They also have locations in PP + Siem Reap.

KAMPOT
The 411 - This dusty outpost is a good base for day trips into the countryside. Rent a moto and cruise around, but DEFINITELY head up to Bokor and spend the night. It's a hell of a 2 hr. cruise each way, but both sunset + sunrise from the top and exploration of the ruins of a French casino make it well worth your while.

PHNOM PENH
The 411 - People seem to love it or hate it, but if nightlife and the out of the ordinary are up your alley then it's worth a few (or several) days, and nights. The markets (esp. Orussey + Central) + Mekong waterfront are worth some time strolling too.
Sleep - Spring Guesthouse (near the Orussey Market) or The Last Home or Royal Guesthouse (between the Central Market + Riverside) are all clean and conveniently located in their own respective + interesting neighborhoods. Some people prefer to stay at Lakeside (but that's a bit of an isolated tourist ghetto) or right on the Riverside (which is a little loud and doesn't have as much local character), but we prefer the others for a more "Cambodian" feel and better value for your money.
Eat - Kandal House (Sisowath Quay) serves up tasty pizza + pasta, Cantina (Sisowath Quay) for the best mexican food we've found in southeast asia + Dragon Guesthouse (Orussey Market area) has a laid-back terrace, entertaining owner and serves up delicious tofu amok (ask for it).
Drink - The FCC for sunset beers, Pontoon for dancing with a view, Elsewhere for first-Friday parties, or Heart of Darkness for late-night weirdness.

SIEM REAP
The 411 - No visit to Cambodia is complete without a trip to Angkor. HIGHLY recommended is arriving via the slow boat (8 hr.) from Battambang. Wear sunscreen!
Angkor - I'm sure that not many people like temples the way we do, and you CAN get templed out here. Regardless, buy the week pass so you can take your time and enjoy. Try not to cram in more than 2 or 3 a day or it's all going to begin looking the same. Bicycling is the perfect mode of transport for slow exploration and a nice way to reflect on what you've just seen before hitting the next one.
Eat - The almond croissants at Blue Pumpkin are especially tasty with a cup of strong, local coffee. Try the food stalls along the outside of the market for a cheap + tasty dinner.

KAMPONG CHHNANG
The 411 - Definitely worth a day or two exploring the southern end of the Tonle Sap. Take a late afternoon boat ride, local style, through floating villages for a great glimpse of a unique way of life.

KAMPONG CHAM
The 411 - Definitely worth a day or two for exploring by bicycle. Go after the rainy season to check out the amazing bamboo bridge (quite possibly the longest in the world).


SUGGESTED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
You'll probably book your flight from home to Bangkok as it's the cheapest option. Book a connecting, cheap flight to Phnom Penh at http://www.airasia.com/ Spend a few days in PP (2-4 days) checking out the markets, back streets, National Museum, Khmer Rouge history + riverside area. Bus to Battambang (1 night), then boat cruise to Siem Reap (1 day). Spend the next few days (3-7 days) checking out Angkor by bike. Try not to squeeze in more than 2 big temples in a day, with some other minor ones. Bus back to PP, then Sihanoukville (2-4 days) for some beachtime relaxation (could also head out to Koh Roo island) + partying before heading home. With a couple more days you could check out one or more of the following smaller towns with character - Kampot and spend the night up at Bokor hill station, Kampong Cham or Kampong Chhnang - before heading home out of PP.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-8/2p
Meal - $1-5/pp
Coffee - .25 - .50
Beer - .50 - .75
Moto/Bicycle - $3-4/$1
Visa - $25-30/ 30 Day

Visa Info
May be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. A 30-day Tourist Visa-On-Arrival can be obtained at the airports in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap for the same cost. Once in country, visas can be extended only once for 30 days through a travel agent for $30-40. If you're planning on staying a bit longer, get a 30-day Business Visa from the embassy in Bangkok or HCMC. This can be extended once you're there for 3, 6 or 12-month intervals. Note that a Tourist Visa can not be extended past 30-days, only a Business Visa. The 12-month costs around $300. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
The people, Angkor + general "Anything goes!" attitude.

What's Not?
Human devastation from landmines + bombs, moto-dup drivers and garbage.

Will you Starve to Death?
We had a bit more luck with vegetarian savory foods here than neighboring Thailand. Try the fried rice cakes filled with spicy greens from the markets. There's more Chinese influence and chowmein + dishes like Ma Po Tofu are available. Fish eaters will be in seventh-heaven with amok, the national dish. Banana pancakes + omelettes rein for breakfast fare, and good coffee + tea are available. Fruit shakes (especially durian or jackfruit) make the perfect dessert or afternoon refresher.

Will you Dig It?
Most people like it. Come for the ruins, but stay for the people.

Books to Read
Cambodia is a great place to buy photocopied guidebooks + novels for cheap. A couple worth picking up are First they killed my Father by Loung Ung and Cambodia Now by Karen Coates.

Check the "link" for photos from Cambodia