INDIA Recommendations

Forget the Lonely Planet! Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend. I've already mailed a journal home with all my notes, but I've listed places in India to the best of my recollection. I'll update this regularly going forward.

INDIA - North + Central

DELHI (HARYANA)
The 411 - Many people hate it, but if you give it a chance the sheer human energy will excite you, plus there are several historical buildings + monuments to check out. Spend some time walking around the back alleys of Pahar Ganj and Chandi Chowk areas. There's lots of cheap shopping + shipping to be done here too.
Sleep - Lord's Hotel (Paharganj, near Train Station) is friendly + CLEAN - look closely for the sign. If they're full, take a right on the alley just past Lords, then a left onto another alley with several other clean, quiet + well-priced options. First up will be Prem Deluxe, farther down is Glow Inn, and if you take a left on the alley in front of Glow you'll come across Namaskar GH + others , as well as cheap, fast internet.
Eat - Malhotra South Indian (Paharganj) serves up super-tasty Upma + Idli Vada. Appetite German Bakery serves decent breakfast + veggie enchiladas for a refreshing change.

HARIDWAR (UTTAR PRADESH)
The 411 - Only 4 quick hours from Delhi + tens of thousands of crazy hindu pilgrims and sadhus. Do not miss!
See - Evening Puja on the Ganges

RISHIKESH (UTTAR PADESH)
The 411 - Cool crowd, great place to stay + good yoga classes make this a pick for staying awhile See - Maharishi Mahash Yogi's Ashram Ruins
Sleep - Bhandari Swiss Cottage (Great vibe + outdoor garden space. Quiet.)
Eat - Ditto. Excellent Veg Burgers + Banana-Honey Pancakes
Yoga - Dr. Das at Ashram on riverside just South of Jakshman Jhula bridge

NAKO (HIMACHAL PRADESH - Spiti Valley)
The 411 - Like something straight out of National Geographic, these people are old school
See - Walk to Tashigang
Sleep - Yellow Guesthouse (FANTASTIC views)

DHANKAR (HIMACHAL PRADESH - Spiti Valley)
The 411 - One of the best sited monasteries I've ever seen. Not bad to view by moonlight either! You could stay here for awhile and be part of the family.
See - Dhankar Gompa
Sleep - Homestay with family

TABO (HIMACHAL PRADESH - Spiti Valley)
The 411 - Not much to see besides the Gompa, but WOW is THAT worth a visit!
See - Tabo Gompa

KIBBER (HIMACHAL PRADESH - Spiti Valley)
The 411 - Good dayhikes in spectacular, little touristed terrain. What more do you want?
See - Hike to the top of highest peak overlooking the river, rising above Ki Gompa

LEH (LADAKH)
The 411 - Unfortunately is suffering from over-tourism, so respect locals customs as they haven't changed here for 1,000's of years until they began allowing US in. Lots of rich Tibetan Buddhist culture here. Would recommend going in June or early July before the crowds hit.
See - Hikes through the fields north of town, up to the Shanti Stupa for sunset + explore Leh Palace + the Old Fort. Also visit the ISEC sustainable development project and check out an environmental film or two.
Sleep - Shuhita's Guest House (next door to Julay) has a wonderful hostess + great garden
Eat - Try the Ginger-Milk Tea instead of chai with Tibetan bread + local apricot jam for breakfast

NUBRA VALLEY (LADAKH)
The 411 - The Nubra Valley is pretty special and doesn't get nearly the number of tourists as Leh area does, PLUS you have to go over the highest motorable pass in the World the get there.
See - Walk through giant sand dunes from Hunder to Diskit + Diskit Monastery
Sleep - Palm Guest House, Diskit (We enjoyed staying here more than Hunder)

LIKIR (LADAKH)
The 411 - Another spectacularly scenic place that doesn't get many overnight visitors. Good point for starting a village to village hike.
See - Monastery with Giant Buddha sitting atop
Sleep - Homestay

SRINIGAR (KASHMIR)
The 411 - It's a love/hate city. The PUSHY touts + HEAVY military presence is a HUGE drag, but it's one of THE most magically beautiful places I've ever been.
See - Walk through the Old City + enjoy Sunset Shikara Rides on Nageen Lake
Sleep - Nageen Lake houseboats (MUCH more chill than Dal Lake)

ARU (KASHMIR)
The 411 - Skip Pahalgam and come straight here. You'll see.
See - Hikes in Hills, Gypsy Shepherds
Sleep - Milky Way Guest House (Clean, cheap + great views)

McLEOD GANJ/DHARAMSALA (HIMACHAL PRADESH)
The 411 - This is a skip in my opinion, unless you're interested in taking a meditation or reiki healing course. Is more commercialized than spiritual, but maybe I was spoiled after all the MUST SEE's I just listed.
Sleep - Kailwood + Loling Guest Houses (Tends to attract a cool crowd of long-termers)
Meditation - Tushita Mediation Center "link"

AGRA (UTTAR PRADESH)
The 411 - DO NOT come to India without seeing this world-renown landmark
See - The Taj, Red Fort + Akbar's Mausoleum are all MUST see's
Eat - Yash Cafe serves up very good Indian + Coconut French Toast

GWALIOR (MADHYA PRADESH)
The 411 - The town itself isn't much, but the Fort rising up on the mesa with it's carvings sure makes for a dramatic backdrop
See - Jain Buddha Carvings + Old Fort
Eat - India Coffee House for Great Coffee + French Toast

ORCHHA (MADHYA PRADESH)
The 411 - Our favorite for undiscovered places that are easy to get to. Super-chill, but lots to see and nice walks. We met a guy that was going to start bike rides through the neighboring nature preserve which should be worthwhile too.
See - Palaces + Cenotaphs

VARANASI (UTTAR PRADESH)
The 411 - Another love/hate place, but this one you'll only hate because it's overwhelming + INTENSE. The more time you give it though the more you'll love it. It's a great place to hang out and learn to play drums or sitar too.
See - Get a bhang lassi before hoping on a rickshaw to the New Vishwanath/Birla Temple
Sleep - Vishnu Rest House @ Pandhey Ghat (stay upstairs + don't let the rickshaw drivers take you to a DIFFERENT Vishu. Tends to attract a cool crowd of long-termers)
Eat - Mona Lisa Cafe has very good Indian fare. Try the Malai Kofta, Lady Finger Masala + Potato-Eggplant Curry. Also try the fresh, creamy local cheeses you see at the yogurt vendors'.


RECOMMENDED ITINERARY -
Give it as much time as you can and don't try to cover too much ground or you'll run yourself ragged. For 2-3 weeks I'd pick ONE region and stick to it. You COULD spend and entire 2-3 weeks JUST in Varanasi.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-6/2p
Meal - .50-$2/pp
Tea - .15
Beer - .75
Moto/Bicycle - N/A
Visa - $60/ 6 months ($40 non-U.S. citizens)

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. The standard issue is for a 6-month Tourist Visa, but U.S. citizens can also apply for a 10-YEAR Visa. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
You'll get the most bang for your travel buck here. Unforgetable + unimaginable images and experiences are what it's all about. It's places where you're challenged that tend to offer you up so many enriching gifts in return. Definitely try to hit at least one festival or pilgrimage spot.

What's Not?
The difficulty of traveling around, the masses of humanity, being stared at, the grime + smells.

Will you Starve to Death?
Indian cuisine is a god-send for vegetarians as many Hindus observe this themselves. Even many meat-eaters prefer to forego meat while here as hygeine is sub-standard. That said, the food that's served here is not nearly as varied in flavor as what we get in U.S. Indian restaurants, so you'll soon be begging for a change. Everything here is greasy + very spicy or greasy + uber-sweet. Don't get your hopes up restaurants that claim to do pizza + pasta as most have NO idea. The spinach-mushroom burgers with fries are usually decent though. Buy your own curd or milk and add fruit + packaged Badam (spiced almond) powder for a refreshing change. Fresh veg salads (bought + washed yourself) with cubed paneer (cheese) or pakoras (fried veggies) with salt + lime also make refreshingly tasty meals. And resign yourself to chai (milk tea) only (unless you're a Nescafe fan), just order it without sugar.

Will you Dig It?
India's not for the faint at heart and you have to be willing to get out of your comfort zone + challenge yourself. If your game though, it'll offer you experiences you'll remember for a lifetime.

Books to Read -
The big cities + tourist hot spots have good + cheap second-hand bookshops. Many trade on a 2 for 1 basis, so bring a few with you to trade along the way. A fun + interesting satiric history that I highly recommend is The Great Indian Novel by Shashi Tharoor. The Spice Route: A History by John Keay is great read while traveling through Kerala. A Passage to India by E.M. Forster is a classic. The Elephanta Suite or The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux are both entertaining reads, as is Delhi: A Novel by Kushwant Singh. Other very good books to trade for when you're here are God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy, The Life of Pi by Yann Martel, Karma Cola by Gita Mehta, Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts + A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry (all easily available). There's also a broad selection of self-help books or others dealing with yoga + anything spiritual.

Check the "link" for photos from India