Monday, November 06, 2006

NEPAL Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

NEPAL

POKHARA
The 411 - It's a bit of a resort scene, but the views of the Annapurna range from town will certainly inspire you to go trekking.
See - Walk up to the stupa (you can even sleep there for the best sunrise + sunset views). Also, rent a boat and paddle around the lake at sunset while enjoying a bottle of wine.
Sleep - Hotel Rustika (Lakeside, Southern end) is set back away from the hubbub and affords nice views

THE ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT
The 411 - Amazing! Read the blog, enough said. (2008 Postscript - A road has been completed on the Western side from Jomsom to Muktinath. It's worth asking around whether this has completely ruined the trek or not.)
Villages worth spending the night in - Jagat, Tal, Tanchok, Bhratang, Khangsar, Jharkot, Ghasa
Villages worth spending an extra day or two in - Upper Pisang, Ghyaru, Ngawal, Manang, Kagbeni, Marpha, Tukuche, Larjung, Tatopani, Chhomrong

KATHMANDU
The 411 - It's infamous and steeped in history. By all acounts not neraly as great as it used to be, but it's still pretty damn cool. There are seemingly unlimited number of hidden backlanes, old building, shrines + temples to discover. The perfect 4-day (minimum) itinerary would be: Day 1 - Morning @ Durbar Square, Afternoon wandering through chowks + to Pachali Bairab, Sunset at Swayambunath; Day 2 - Wander random backlanes + shop in Thamel; Day 3 - Day + Night in Boudhha; Day 4 - Day + Night in Patan
Sleep - Hotel Sugat (Durbar Square), WAY better than the Thamel scene
Eat - There are a TON of places to chose from specializing in all manner of international cuisine. Weizen Bakery in Thamel makes good pastries and everything is half-off after 8pm. Our favorite meal was to buy chewy nan from a dhaba on Freak Streat and stuff it with cheese and fresh veggies + herbs. Morning chai from the man right out front of Sugat is a treat.
Buy - Thamel is the mother of all knock-off, outdoor-goods shopping scenes. You can buy any reasonable to good quality item here for your trek. Most everything can be rented too for pennies a day.


RECOMMENDED ITINERARY -
Depends on what trek you're interested in, but don't give it less than 2 weeks. 3-4 weeks gives you a much broader range of options.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p
Meal - .75-$2/pp
Tea - .20
Beer - .75
Moto/Bicycle - N/A
Visa - $30/ 60 days

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. The standard issue is for a 60-day Tourist Visa. Once in country visas can be extended up to 120 days in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Unforgetable mountain scenery combined with ancient, rural culture.

What's Not?
Noise + pollution of Kathmandu valley.

Will you Starve to Death?
The food is certainly more varied than India, though Thali (Dal + Rice) meals are commonly found on trekking routes. Chowmein is everywhere. Western approximations are better too though still not what you might expect. Tofu, beans + yak cheese are abundant fo vegetarians. Baked goods, particularly cinnamon rolls are totally passable. Coffee is available in the cities, though you pay a premium for it.

Will you Dig It?
It's a trekker's paradise combined with an enriching + educational culture experience. The people are sweet + mellow too, a refreshing break after India.

Check the "link" for photos from Nepal