CHINA - Guangxi Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Guangxi Province

CHENGYANG
The 411 - Another little-touristed village (actually a grouping of seven different villages) in an idyllic setting with rice paddies + old bridges. We've also had recommended the trek from Chengyang to Zhaoxing in Guizhou through beautiful countryside + doing homestays in small Dong minority villages.
Sleep - Yang's Guesthouse is just across the bridge and owned by a friendly local (Yang) who can answer your questions about the area.
Eat - There's one stir-fry house on the river by the bridge at the northern edge of town. The cheapest prices around and you can enjoy a sound + light show of the most natural sorts.

YANGSHUO
The 411 - A very touristy scene (of both Westerners + Chinese), but it's a necessary base for exploring the surrounding karsts.
See - Highlights of this area, if you've got the inclination for a little adventure + getting off-the-beaten-path, include biking through the surrounding karsts. Ride #1 - Head south to the Yulong Jiang (River) and take a right (west) on the dirt road right before the bridge. Follow the river until the road ends. Take a bamboo raft (5 yuan) to cross and continue biking along the river to reach the old Dragon Bridge. From here, you have the option to raft back down the river (130-150 yuan) if you're out of steam or keep biking and return via Jinbao town to Gaotian if time allows and you have the energy. Ride #2 - Head east to Fuli on Market Day (every 3 days) and explore before taking the ferry (5 yuan) across to Dutou village. Continue on to Liugong village and continue following the dirt road south + west to Lexiang and back to the main Yangshuo-Gaotian road to return home.
Eat - The food is only o.k., but you've at least once got to dine at the outdoor "Night Market". You won't believe your eyes, or ears.

XINGPING
The 411 - Much less touristy than Yangshuo, this would be a more relaxing base for further exploration.
See - For a REAL adventure set out on a multi-day bike trip from Yangshuo to Xingping (Note: You will need to ask for directions to each progressive village at every intersection as there are no signs). Ride #3 - Begin by heading north to Bajiaolin village, then Guban, continuing towards Daping. Keep staying right at the forks in the road and you'll eventually be high up on a ridge with views of the valley below. At the fork where the road begins to descend, stay right and you'll soon come across Mr. Zhao's Guesthouse, signed only in Chinese + the first accomodation you'll encounter on this route in Bao Shan village. (Note: It's approx. 7-8 hours to this point, 27 Km) Staying here is a memorable experience and Mr. Zhao will eagerly offer to take you to a viewpoint (10 yuan/p.p.) that is well worth the money. When you're feeling ready to move on continue down the road to the river (near "9 Horse" formation). Take the ferry across the Li Jiang (4 yuan) and continue along the river to Xingping. (Note: It's approx. 1-1/2 hours to this point). If you've got time it would be worth staying a night or two here too for more rides via bike or boat to check out the landscape, or you can continue back to Yangshuo via the road to Fuli. (Note: Approx. 2 hours, 24 Km)

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Guiyang (Guizhou province). Head out by bus to Xijiang (3-5 days), Congjiang area (1 day), then Zhaoxing (2 days) for a taste of village life. Time permitting, continue on into the Guangxi province and get your fill of bridges in the Chengyang area (2 days), before heading on to the Yangshuo area (3-6 days) and it's stunning karst landscape. Take a bus to Guilin where you can catch a flight back to Hong Kong. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-2/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Guangxi province is all about karsts - And in abundance. You've never seen anything like this!

What's Not?
This area has sold itself to tourism years ago so don't expect to have it all to yourself. Avoid Yangshuo on the weekend if you don't want crowds as the Chinese flock here in droves as a weekend "party" get-away.

Will you Starve to Death?
As with the other southern provinces, you've got stir-fry houses galore. Yangshuo has lots of restaurants that CLAIM to serve good western fare, though we never tried. Dumpling houses are a nice change from the usual and all offer veggie-filled.

Will you Dig It?
If you've ever longed for that magical landscape of China you've doubtless seen reproduced in watercolor on scrolls - Rivers flowing through karsts + men catching fish on boats with lanterns hung from poles - Then you'll be in seventh heaven.

Books to Read
We didn't see any second-hand bookstores that I recall, so it's best to bring your own. Here are two that are both entertaining + informative - The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester, Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux.

Check the "link" for photos from China

CHINA - Guizhou Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Guizhou Province

XIJIANG
The 411 - This is 21st century village life in all it's glory. You've got a few modern conveniences like electricity + internet, but for the most part it's "Old School" and virtually no tourists - A real hidden gem. We spent a week here hanging about town + hiking in the terraced countryside. Beautiful!
Sleep - Leslie's Guesthouse has cheap rooms in a traditional-style home.
Eat - There are just enough options here to feed your belly with a little diversity. The stir-fry house near internet is the best of the lot. Would recommend bringing a stockpile of fresh fruit with you if you're planning to stay awhile.

CONGJIANG
The 411 - This is only an o.k. city, but it's a good base for heading into surounding villages where the locals still dress to the hilt. We went through Shahjiang (one hour north) on the bus on their market day. This would be a VERY good one to hit if possible. Baisha (10 min. north) was also recommended by other travelers.

ZHAOXING
The 411 - A minimally touristed village in a lovely setting on a river. Spend a day hiking up to the village of Tag An and working your way back down through the terraces. From what we've heard, this is a much nicer option than the touted Longsheng terraces - Sans tourists + admission and just as spectacular.

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Guiyang, the provincial capital. Head out by bus to Xijiang (3-5 days), Congjiang area (1 day), then Zhaoxing (2 days) for a taste of village life. Time permitting, continue on into the Guangxi province and get your fill of bridges in the Chengyang area (2 days), before heading on to the Yangshuo area (3-6 days) and it's stunning karst landscape. Take a bus to Guilin where you can catch a flight back to Hong Kong. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-2/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Stepping back in time and a chance to experience real village life with just enough modern conveniences. The area south of Kaili to north of Sangjiang is dotted with numerous Miao + Dong minority villages alongside rivers + surrounded by stunning terraces. This is a very special place so if you visit, please TREAD LIGHTLY - Respect local culture by dressing modestly and being thoughtful with your photo-taking.

What's Not?
We're really loving it at this of time of writing, but the area is so fragile to tourism development (that China is proceding with everywhere else at mind-boggling speed) that it could change very rapidly.

Will you Starve to Death?
Also very veggie friendly as stir-fry houses are what's it. The produce selection is more limited than Yunnan though and the minority people tend to cook with more spices + oil, so though everything's tastier, it's also likely to be very greasy. Try the sour vegetable soup for a healthier change. Every guest house/hotel provides thermoses of hot water, so if you've got your tea + walnut powder you're still in business. Not much wine available here, except in the bigger cities, but the beer is still o.k.

Will you Dig It?
You've got to like walking in stunning countryside + rural, ethnic villages, but if that's up your alley then this provides much of what places like Annapurna in Nepal or Spiti + Ladakh in India have to offer without all the horrendous hours of transport to get there. Don't expect the religious aspect or total absence of tour groups, but for the time being it's still off-the-beaten path. With the rate China's tourism industry is booming this may not last for long so COME SOON.

Books to Read
There are no second-hand bookstores in this little-touristed province and it's pretty quiet in the evenings, so bring a few. There aren't any books that I've seen dealing with this specific area, so you might want to read something more general about Mao, The Cultural Revolution or other history. Here's one that I've seen around that looks interesting - 1421: The Year China Discovered the World by Gavin Menzies.

Check the "link" for photos from China