THAILAND Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

THAILAND

BANGKOK
The 411 - It's really not a bad place to explore + get your errands done. There's lots of cheap massage too to soothe your aching legs after walking all day.
See - Take the back-alley khlong (canal) water taxi from Wat Saket to Siam Square - Cheap + fun. Also, don't miss the Royal Palace complex and a visit to the Night Flower Market + HUGE Weekend Market.
Sleep - Rajdamnoen Hotel (90 Ratchadamnoen, across the Blvd. from Khao San Road, behind the Mercedes dealership) is a decent, quiet place with large, clean rooms. The location is pretty central for walking to many of the main sites and it's also at a major bus stop.
Eat - Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad), Yellow Sticky Rice w/ coconut custard down alley near City Hall (Banglamphu). Sapanhan Vegetarian in Chinatown (528 Jakapet Rd.) is the best we've found in the city so far. There's also another decent one at the weekend market, ask around to find it.
Drink - Have at least one at sunset atop the River View Guesthouse. Reggae Bar down a back alley off Khao San is a much less frenetic scene.
Shop - This city is a shopping mecca. If possible, time your visit allowing BOTH Saturday + Sunday at the Chatuchak weekend market where you can buy everything under the sun at great prices.

AYUTHAYA
The 411 - Only 1-1/2 North of Bangkok by train, but feels a world away. Rent bikes to tour the UNESCO ruins for a day or two in this ancient town that is half park and half architectural wonderland. Head to the Wat across the river by ferry to be awed by an amazing Buddha.

SAMUT SONGKRAM
The 411 - Only 1-1/2 hours South of Bangkok by bus, and barely a tourist to be found. People are super-friendly, there are many weekend markets to explore nearby + the market food is fantastic.
See - This is a main access point for the floating markets nearby. Worthwhile if you haven't seen the ones on the Mekong in Vietnam. Also, the Wat outside of town has fantastic mother-of-pearl inlay murals.

KOH MAK
The 411 - For now, a little developed island with lots of charm + good opportunity to check out local island life. One of the best beach scenes I've ever visited.
Sleep - Lazy Days is THE place to be, but they're losing their lease in Spring '07. This south-eastern end of the coastline is nice and chill, but it's best to check out a few places and see what the vibe is like. Contact Nan #08-9099-7819 (the Lazy Days manager) to find out where he is now as that will undoubtedly be a good scene.

KHONG CHIAM
The 411 - Sleepy little village in a picturesque setting at the confluence of the Mekong + Moon Rivers. Worth a day or more if you're looking to explore unpopulated jungle and just chill out with the locals.

SI SAKET
The 411 - This Isaan town's biggest draw is it's night market and access to the Preah Vihear ruins across the border in Cambodia. For the latter, note that it'll cost you about 60 bucks for two people with transport. Pretty steep for a day trip, but the VIEWS! The border guards didn't seem as strick as we'd be told, so you may be able to spend the night up at the ruins if you go with your own moto rented in Ubon. Bring a hammock.
Eat - The night market has THE best display of prepared foods I've ever seen! If you're a veg you'll be limited to the usual phad thai + som tam salad, but if you're into meat, seafood + whole fish you'll have a field day.

LOPBURI
The 411 - A pleasant stopping point on the North-South train line and great chance for viewing monkeys.
See - 6:30 in the morning is when the monkeys do their big feed at the temple, but you can see them roaming the streets in late afternoon too as they make a chaotic entrance into town. There are many ruins scattered around town and it's pleasant to walk around exploring them. Those across from the train station are the best.
Sleep - Noom Guesthouse (near the train staion, around the corner from 7-11) is a cosy bet in an old, teak home. The owners are friendly + helpful.

SAWANKHALOK
The 411 - The town itself is nothing special except that it's home to many of THE nicest people we've met in all of Thailand, which gives it a charm all it's own. It's also a great base for exploring the nearby (and recommended) ruins at Si Satchanalai for a couple days.
See - Si Satchanalai is an impressive collection of little-touristed ruins in the style of Sukhothai. Take a songthaew the 18K from town to Chaliang and explore the ruins at your own leisure by bicycle. Stay until near sunset to enjoy Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat and hitchhike back before it gets dark.
Sleep - Saengsin Hotel is very clean and friendly
Eat - Definitely at the night market

SUKHOTHAI
The 411 - Be sure to come if you're in striking distance and have any interest in ruins. It's certainly worth a day or two biking around. Do NOT miss Wat Si Chum. Those at Si Satchanali are not as well-preserved, but the peace + quiet, and Wat PSRM make it a worthy stop in addition.
Sleep - Ban Thai offers clean rooms in a charming teak home with lush garden setting.

MAE SOT
The 411 - Very interesting crosssroads with a mix of Thai, Chinese, Burmese + Bangladeshi. You'll see orange-robed monks + white-kurta'd muslims walking down the streets, and both phad thai + samosas and daal are available. Spend a couple days browsing the markets and venture into the picturesque countryside by bike or moto. A day trip into Myawaddy (Burma) is also a worthwhile outing, and you can even get a 30-day visa extension here.


SUGGESTED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
You really can't get through Bangkok any faster than a day on either end if you've been here before, and 2-3 if you haven't. There's plenty to see + do and it's always interesting. The other must-see's would be some ruins/temples (2-4 days) - Ayutthaya, Sukhothai + Sawankhalok would be my top picks. The beaches + islands are some of the best in the world. I haven't been, but most people rave about Koh Phi-Phi and Koh Samui. We visited a VERY chill little scene closer to the Thai/Cambodia border, Koh Mak, and liked it alot (4-7 days). Also, Mae Sot is an interesting detour if you have time (2-3 days).

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-8/2p
Meal - $1-3/pp
Coffee - .25
Beer - .50
Moto/Bicycle - $6/$3 day
Visa - Free / 15-30 days

Visa Info
May be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy, depending on your desired length of stay. A 60-day Tourist Visa can be obtained in advance and costs $25, though most people obtain a free Visa-On-Arrival at the airport for a short 15-day validity. We got a 30-day free on arrival at the Mukhaden/Savannakhet (Laos) border. Once in country visas can be extended once for 30 days. We extended by crossing the border at Mae Sot into Burma for a day ($15). New visa rules are now strictly enforced where you can only spend 3 out of any 6 month period in country. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Fantastic food (mostly for non-veggies), beautiful temples + buddhas, beaches, friendly people.

What's Not?
Over-tourism in the most popular destinations. Get off the beaten path!

Will you Starve to Death?
Quite the contrary! Though vegetarians will have a MUCH more challenging time here than you might think, especially if you're trying to stick with locals food stalls (Carefully order phad thai + green papaya salad). If you eat meat, you've got TONS of tasty-looking options. But if you're adverse to eggs + fish sauce you'll be limited to vegetarian-only restaurants (We only found them in Bangkok and in a handful of other towns) or restaurants that cater to foreigners. The Thai iced tea is out of this world, as is the sticky rice with mango + coconut custard baked in a pumpkin. And did I mention the tropical fruits?!

Will you Dig It?
Probably. There's alot to like, but you may find it a little too reminiscent of the West. If you're a seasoned traveler - Get off the trail! If it's your first foray abroad you'll find this an easy to navigate and an enchanting introduction to world travel.

Check the "link" for photos from Thailand